[rocket celica]

what is the difference between 0w30 5w30 10w30. I live in california. Most of you use 5w30 on the celicas but why do oil change places use 10w30? what do you use for vans?

 

[z6joker9]

ummm... it's the viscosity. i'm a little rusty to be honest, but i believe 5w30 would flow better in cold weather.

they have all kinda of different weights, not just those three. to name a few that you can find easily for cars, anything as low as 0, 5, 10, or 15, with the larger number being 30, 40, or 50.

i just changed my oil today in fact, i did use 10w30 because i had a couple of leftover mobil 1 bottles from summer, and it's been 50-70 degrees here lately.

btw, you might get more responses for a question like this in the newbie forum

 

[rocket celica]

I live in southen California.

 

[yakkosmurf]

You should go with 5W-30 year round as the manufacturer suggests. The 5W-30 simply flows better at startup. After the oil reaches operating temperature, it flows the same and offers the same protection as 10W-30. The only difference is the cold flow capability. In the 2ZZ engine, you want the oil flowing through those small oil passages as soon as possible. Always use the 5W-30. I can't think of any reason you should use 10W-30 instead. Nowhere is it hot enough that 5W-30 would be too thin at startup.

 

[Paeday]

if i remember 5-30 means good from 5 degrees celcius to 30 degrees celcuis and so on for 10-30.

 

[autxr]

I mostly agree with yakkosmurf (a rarity).

The first number (5 or 10 in this case) is the cold viscosity, 5 really isn't too thin even in exceptionally hot weather, however, 10 isn't too thin either.

The second number is the HOT viscosity, so once it's warm, a 5W-30 and a 10W-30 are exactly the same.

Here's the difference. Typically the narrower the viscosity range, the more uniform the oil composition is. Often modifiers (non-oil, non-lubricating) are needed to make the oil perform at the advertized viscosity. The modifiers are the first thing that breaks down in the oil, so a narrower range is better.

That being said, with modern oils, they often get the viscosity range advertized simply by changing the oil formulation, without the use of modifiers.

The only reason I would see to go with a 10W-30 is if you have an older car and it was making noise (rod knock, lifter rattle, etc) with the thinner oil. Even so, that would be more a function of the hot viscosity, so you would need a 40 or 50 wt oil.

Scott

 

[yakkosmurf]

if i remember 5-30 means good from 5 degrees celcius to 30 degrees celcuis and so on for 10-30.

Nope. Autoxr explained it though.

 

[yakkosmurf]

I mostly agree with yakkosmurf (a rarity).

It happens every now then. Usually when the topic is more technical and less subjective. We both know our stuff.

 

[rocket celica]

I understand what you are saying somewhat but you say that the narrower the range I presume between say 5-30, the better. Then since 10-30 has less range shouldn't this be better?
So if we use 10w instead of 5w, there would be more wear and tear when the engine is cold than 10w? In this case wouldn't 0w provide the best protection when engine is cold?
LAstly if it's best to use 5w why do most oil change places use either 10w30 or 10w40?

I mostly agree with yakkosmurf (a rarity).

The first number (5 or 10 in this case) is the cold viscosity, 5 really isn't too thin even in exceptionally hot weather, however, 10 isn't too thin either.

The second number is the HOT viscosity, so once it's warm, a 5W-30 and a 10W-30 are exactly the same.

Here's the difference. Typically the narrower the viscosity range, the more uniform the oil composition is. Often modifiers (non-oil, non-lubricating) are needed to make the oil perform at the advertized viscosity. The modifiers are the first thing that breaks down in the oil, so a narrower range is better.

That being said, with modern oils, they often get the viscosity range advertized simply by changing the oil formulation, without the use of modifiers.

The only reason I would see to go with a 10W-30 is if you have an older car and it was making noise (rod knock, lifter rattle, etc) with the thinner oil. Even so, that would be more a function of the hot viscosity, so you would need a 40 or 50 wt oil.

Scott

 

[autxr]

In theory, 10W30 is a "better" oil than 5W30 - that is from the stand point of HOT oil life and oil efficiency. This is not so true with modern oils 9I assume you are buying the oil new, not using 20 year old stuff).

As for cold wear and tear, the only thing that matters is if there is oil on the parts at start up, or how long it takes for the oil to get to the parts.

The colder it is, the longer it takes for the oil to circulate.

Since you live in California, you would have no problems with 0, 5 or 10 W30, use any that you choose, it won't matter.

If you are planning a road trip to Alaska, then I say to go ahead and put the 0W30 in it.

Scott

Scott

 

[yakkosmurf]

0W-30 is also not a great choice for where you live. You want the oil to maintain some thickness and not necessarily be water-like. There's a middle ground you are shooting for.

Oil does two things for your engine when it's cold. We've already discussed how it gets moving more quickly at startup to provide lubrication to the parts that need it. A thin oil does this better. The second part, however, is the oil adheres to the engine parts when the engine's not running. If the oil is too thin (0 weight oil in a warm climate) it's not going to adhere to the parts too well when the engine's off. For most temps in the US, the 5W-30 does best.

As for the oil change places using 10W-30, please don't think these guys are performance or car care based at all. They are just doing what's easiest and fastest. In my opinion, they are stuck a little in the past, and they just want what's easy. In years past, 10W-30 was what most cars used. Today's advanced engines (especially on imports) have smaller oil passageways. That's why you see 5W-30 now the recommendation. The thinner oil flows through these small channels easier on startup. 10W-30, however, is less likely to leak through old and worn out seals. This is the side the oil change places tend to lean toward.

Feel free to chime in here, Scott.

 

[autxr]

I agree.

Remember, no matter how thin the oil is when it's cold, it will be *thinner* when it's hot.

This is relatively informative (and where I have gotten a bit of my information)

http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_oil_facts.html