My car was bouncing the idle between 1k-2k.
According to some things I read, the car will enter "Limp Mode" if the IAC/valve is not operating correctly. In this scenario there are two components which can be at fault. (Note: This could be possibly false, just what I found online)
In my case, I discovered that the valve shaft was unable to rotate at all. I decided to remove the black box in order to get a good look at the unit and help me thoroughly clean it.
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Step 1: Mark a line across the metal component and the black plastic housing or make a mark across the bolt heads so that you can later re-align the black box in the original position.
Step 2: Remove electronic black box from IACV assembly via 5-Lobe Torx Bit. I opted to cut a slot into the heads of the bolt in order to use a good flat head screw driver.
NOTE: If you cut the bolts make sure to remove all shavings on the component and the work area before separating the housing which reveals a magnet.
The screw is size M4x0.75 at approx 22mm in length with a tapered tip.
Step 3: Carefully separate the black box from the component. This will require a light amount of force to pull the magnet free.
This will reveal an O-ring, the bearing, magnetic cylinder and the square tab attached to it. This tab fits into a slot inside of the black box receptacle
The bearing is inscribed with "R-165OHH", "625ZZ", "NMB"
Step 4: By gripping the magnetic cylinder the shaft should spin freely. My shaft did not spin at all until I applied Carb/Throttle and Brake Cleaner. First I submerged the unit in cleaner for a bit until the shaft would spin without forcing it. Using a skinny rigid piece of plastic to scrape out some of the nooks that won't come clean after soaking was very effective.
Once it was spinning without binding up I used the method shown here to pour cleaner into the IACV and spin the head, dumping out the cleaner and re-pouring it back in to help flush things out without wasting cleaner. Eventually the assembly will spin multiple revolutions with a flick of the cylinder. Cleaner will also start dripping out of the bearing once it is unblocked with debris.
Step 5: I dried the unit with a hair drier. I then applied some gear oil (75W-90) into the bearings and spun it around a bit. I then used some cleaning spray to lightly spray everywhere except for the bearings. I also rotated the shaft while spraying to get both sides of it. The shaft eventually spun free, the bearings were lubed and there was no excess lube slowing down the action.
Step 6: I reassembled the unit by first placing the cleaned O-ring onto the unit and then rotating the cylinder down to orient the square tab in the position it was in originally (as seen in the step 3 picture). Bringing the two pieces together will cause the two halves to join and seat properly via magnetic force. Once joined together via magnetic force there should just be a small gap between the two. If the two components won't mate up then do not force it, separate them and try realigning the metal tab again until they join together properly.
Slide the black box some to align the hash marks you made earlier. The mounting holes on the black box are enlarged so that you can adjust the box up/down in order to line up the hash marks before bolting it back on fully. I used alternated tightening the two screws slowly to ensure that the unit is seated and aligned properly.
________________________________
After completing the operation above you will now have a thoroughly cleaned and lubricated IACV that is ready to be re-assembled as outlined in the other tutorials.
This method allows more control over the cleaning of the unit by being able to soak it without worry of electronic parts being damaged and being able to easily rotate and clean the shaft/bearings.
The only down side to this is that the O-Ring is likely a non-reusable part and could possibly not seal properly depending on it's condition. I am unsure of the part number and/or if it is even available from toyota.
Here is the album link of all of my photos posted here in addition to some that were not posted due to them being different angles of the photos in the guide.: http://imgur.com/a/PxkKd
According to some things I read, the car will enter "Limp Mode" if the IAC/valve is not operating correctly. In this scenario there are two components which can be at fault. (Note: This could be possibly false, just what I found online)
- The electronic black box connected to the IACV
- The mechanical valve shaft that rotates on bearings
In my case, I discovered that the valve shaft was unable to rotate at all. I decided to remove the black box in order to get a good look at the unit and help me thoroughly clean it.
________________________________
Step 1: Mark a line across the metal component and the black plastic housing or make a mark across the bolt heads so that you can later re-align the black box in the original position.
Step 2: Remove electronic black box from IACV assembly via 5-Lobe Torx Bit. I opted to cut a slot into the heads of the bolt in order to use a good flat head screw driver.
NOTE: If you cut the bolts make sure to remove all shavings on the component and the work area before separating the housing which reveals a magnet.
The screw is size M4x0.75 at approx 22mm in length with a tapered tip.
Step 3: Carefully separate the black box from the component. This will require a light amount of force to pull the magnet free.
This will reveal an O-ring, the bearing, magnetic cylinder and the square tab attached to it. This tab fits into a slot inside of the black box receptacle
The bearing is inscribed with "R-165OHH", "625ZZ", "NMB"
Step 4: By gripping the magnetic cylinder the shaft should spin freely. My shaft did not spin at all until I applied Carb/Throttle and Brake Cleaner. First I submerged the unit in cleaner for a bit until the shaft would spin without forcing it. Using a skinny rigid piece of plastic to scrape out some of the nooks that won't come clean after soaking was very effective.
Once it was spinning without binding up I used the method shown here to pour cleaner into the IACV and spin the head, dumping out the cleaner and re-pouring it back in to help flush things out without wasting cleaner. Eventually the assembly will spin multiple revolutions with a flick of the cylinder. Cleaner will also start dripping out of the bearing once it is unblocked with debris.
Step 5: I dried the unit with a hair drier. I then applied some gear oil (75W-90) into the bearings and spun it around a bit. I then used some cleaning spray to lightly spray everywhere except for the bearings. I also rotated the shaft while spraying to get both sides of it. The shaft eventually spun free, the bearings were lubed and there was no excess lube slowing down the action.
Step 6: I reassembled the unit by first placing the cleaned O-ring onto the unit and then rotating the cylinder down to orient the square tab in the position it was in originally (as seen in the step 3 picture). Bringing the two pieces together will cause the two halves to join and seat properly via magnetic force. Once joined together via magnetic force there should just be a small gap between the two. If the two components won't mate up then do not force it, separate them and try realigning the metal tab again until they join together properly.
Slide the black box some to align the hash marks you made earlier. The mounting holes on the black box are enlarged so that you can adjust the box up/down in order to line up the hash marks before bolting it back on fully. I used alternated tightening the two screws slowly to ensure that the unit is seated and aligned properly.
________________________________
After completing the operation above you will now have a thoroughly cleaned and lubricated IACV that is ready to be re-assembled as outlined in the other tutorials.
This method allows more control over the cleaning of the unit by being able to soak it without worry of electronic parts being damaged and being able to easily rotate and clean the shaft/bearings.
The only down side to this is that the O-Ring is likely a non-reusable part and could possibly not seal properly depending on it's condition. I am unsure of the part number and/or if it is even available from toyota.
Here is the album link of all of my photos posted here in addition to some that were not posted due to them being different angles of the photos in the guide.: http://imgur.com/a/PxkKd
