where did you get it from? europe?

 

buy toyota oem flywheel bolts.
they come with some kind of loctite
the oem part number for the bolts is
90910-02103
here is how the stock bolts look like

^^ i did not take that picture, i forgot who on this site did. so credit goes to him not me

 

buy toyota oem flywheel bolts.
they come with some kind of loctite
the oem part number for the bolts is
90910-02103
here is how the stock bolts look like

^^ i did not take that picture, i forgot who on this site did. so credit goes to him not me

You need these even if you buy a clutch kit? (Or meybe a stupid question, i am looking to change them both)

 

i heard using ARP bolts with the red bottle of loctite is what to use

 

lol i cant believe oem bolts are not reusable even if mwr says so how can a bolt stretch with only 20 ft lb of torque the torque."it's an estimate dunno what flywheel torque suppose to be"

 

what are you talking about?
on a manual trans the bolts have to be torque down to 36 ft lb of torque.
on a automatic trans the bolts have to be torque down to 65 ft lb of torque.

Btw On Demand and the toyota guide say use loctite "

it depends if the trans is manual or auto.
if the trans is manual you do not need to use loctite
if the trans is auto then yes you need to use loctite

go to the manual now, page 118-119

 

you Better keep reading. its not only 36lbs! after that you have to turn the bolt another 90 degrees. i cant tell you how many times i have to stress this. its 36lbs and 90 degrees

 

yoy Better keep reading. its not only 36lbs! after that you have to turn the bolt another 90 degrees. i cant tell you how many times i have to stress this. its 36lbs and 90 degrees

Forgot to turn 90 degrees after the install on a friends car, has been going strong for 40k with no problems as of yet. However please make sure to do this.

 

I used arp bolts and a tad of blue loctite..what could it hurt?

I wouldn't use red loctite unless you plan on putting a torch to it to get it off.

 

o damn just saw that.. never saw the 90 degrees damn...now i think i should of bought the arp bolts.Zaneman did u resue your old bolts?

 

if you are even considering using the oem bolts again you are asking for trouble. Seriously.

I don't even like the ARP ones because a few people have said that they work themselves loose over time. There was a guy on here (mastergts or hypergts, something like that..) who had these bolts work loose over time and then they got hit under load. The heads sheared off the flywheel bolts leaving a shard stuck inside the transmission. Someone mentioned giving an extra 15ft/lb over the factory spec when using those ARP bolts but that was a while ago when I read that.

^because of that mess above I just bought toyota's flywheel bolts. If you get them from da interwebz then you can save a grip. 1sttoyotaparts or partznet should both carry them.

 

ok
i did it as written in the toyota manual.
50 Nm and then 90

 

on the left u see the oem toyota bolt with some type of loctite.
on the right you see the arp bolt.
its about 2mm longer than oem.
But it fits, i tried it.
To tighten the oem you need a XZN 14 and for the arp you need XZN 13.
I hope this will help you guys.

 

The stock bolts are torque to yield- you torque to a spec then another 90 degrees which permanently stretches (yields) the bolt. This makes it longer but also weaker. It does its job but if you remove it then try to reuse it it's already been stretched and weakened. That is why it's recommended that you do not reuse torque to yield bolts.

The ARP's have worked great in my experience. That is what we run at 750hp and 9500+ RPM and they stay put as they're supposed to. If any flywheel bolts, ARP or stock, come loose then there is a good chance they'll shear off from the shock loading.

The ARP's are stronger, reusable and are cheaper than stock bolts so I think they are a good value.

 

The ARP's are stronger, reusable and are cheaper than stock bolts so I think they are a good value.

How do you guys install them? I'll assume you throw the book out the window and don't torque-to-yield. Maybe just use the higher AT torque value (or something from ARP) with no additional rotation.

dB

 

ARP bolts should be torqued to 58lbs using their moly lube. and i think its 68lbs using 30W oil

 

ARP bolts should be torqued to 58lbs using their moly lube.

So no loctite for ARP bolts ? just moly lube ?