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KoRn14 said:
I'm trying to do this to my 00 Celica...all original...and I can't even get to the radiator drain plug to open it

there's what looks like a frame crossbar under the radiator that blocks me from getting the 10mm allen wrench in to loosen the plug...

...any ideas?
Hey...anyone with some help on this?????????? Would be greatly appreciated!!
 

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Yes, there was a frame bar.... you don't reach through the hole, but around. You can get your hand around it, and you should position the drain box just underneath that hole in the frame. The liquid would travel down that bar and exit nicely out of one place.
 

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thanks, I see all of that, but I don't see how there is enough room between the crossbar and the plug in order to unscrew it out. I can get my hand in there no problem, but I can't get any tool in there
 

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ed7 said:
Sounds a lot like bleeding an old Fiat I used to run. Aint they doing nothing better?
Many of the Renault's were the same way. Had to hang the coolant bottle from the hood, open the bleeder screws in the cooling system and rev the engine untill all of the bubbles stoped comming into the bottle.
 

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I just flushed my coolant this weekend w/the help of this procedure.

Few things I'd like to add regarding this procedure:

Warm your car up before doing any of the above! I made the mistake of draining the coolant before the thermostat popped open, thus all of the dirty coolant in the engine stayed & contaminated the clean coolant I put in. I assumed my thermo opened but it turns out it wasn't warm enough yet (even tho the temp gauge read halfway).

As far as bleeding goes, let the car idle for ~15 minutes WITH THE CAPS CLOSED. When you come back to the car the bottle should be close to empty & when you pop the bleed valve off it should release some vaccuum. Fill the bottle up a little above the "Full" and squish the driver-side radiator hose.

After you do this, proceed to idling the car w/the heater on max. WHen I returned to my car the coolant level didn't go down at all.
 

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so then how would you go about doing a flush and fill? step by step please
 

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The newcelica forum saves the day once again!!!

Yesterday, in 20 degree weather and sleet, i noticed my car was overheating. Well, first i noticed the heat wasnt working, and i knew... watch that thermostat. Sure enough, it maxed out and started flashing. I had to pull over 4 times on the way home to let it cool. I got home, read this thread, went to toyota, bought the good ****, and did this whole proceedure... i massaged the tubing between the engine and the radiator, and sure enough it was bubbling like a violently destroyed a**hole. once the juices started flowin, the heat started comin and we were good to go baby!

THANK YOU!!! LONG LIVE ONE OF THE GREATEST CARS EVER MADE!!!!
 

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I just did this.

I did it like, open bleeder valve, squish hoses until hot coolant would come out without any bubbles. To top up, i closed the bleeder valve, then opened the filler cap - then repeated the process.

My coolant still dropped though after a 50 mile drive...is it normal to have to do this a few times? Also how important is it to have the car jacked up at an angle and have the resevoir hanging over the front bumper?
 

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Hi Gents, I am in the middle of this problem also. I have a 2001 GTS.

This was the story before I replaced the thermostat:

After about 1 mile from a cold start, the dial flashes onto overheat, the heater still runs cold. Dial flashed overheat for about 30 seconds and then returns to normal temp. this happens maybe 2 or three time over the next mile and then the problem doesnt come back until the car is switched off and goes cold again.

On motorways/faster speeds there was no problem with overheating, but still no actual heating coming through to the cab.

Present day

I had my thermostat replaced last week and the heating started to work again.

Since then I noticed that although the heating does get hot now, but if I run it for a while on full blast it actually returns to cold, this should not happen on a running engine.

When I lift the hood and listen to the engine tick over (AFTER OVERHEATING), about every ten seconds I hear a feint 'sucking' sound.

The car now only overheats if I travel more than about 20 miles. And now I cant risk taking it on the motorway (I did once and had to get towed)

I have spent quite a bit of money on this problem but since it is not blatantly ovbious what's wrong I find my mechanic fiddling about with things and thinking it is fixed when it is not.

Does this sound simply like air in the system? I really hope it is!

Unfortunately I am thinking of getting rid of the car (due to problems and baby on way) but if I knew that it was fixed I would feel more comfortable about selling privately.
 

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Air in the system is causing the overheating, but more than anything the key issue here is an airleak of some sort, allowing air back into the system.

I'd get that thermostat installation checked over again. Could be either put in the wrong way around or not sealed in properly.
 

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Ok, if I try the bleed procedure above first might this help in some way?

I know I have tried to raise the coolant bottle before but there was not enough slack in the hoses to raise it more than a couple of inches.

If there was a leak in the system wouldnt this cause coolant to escape as well as let air in?

Thanks for your help.
 

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raise it, and lift the front end of your car up too. If you can, find a hill somewhere in your city where you can have an sharp incline (which is better than lifting the front end of your car) and you'll see better results after massaging the coolant tube.
 

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Ok, if I try the bleed procedure above first might this help in some way?

I know I have tried to raise the coolant bottle before but there was not enough slack in the hoses to raise it more than a couple of inches.

If there was a leak in the system wouldnt this cause coolant to escape as well as let air in?

Thanks for your help.
Yes, by all means, try bleeding the air out. It's normal to only be able to raise it up a few inches as that seems a UK thing for some reason...a nice guy on here posted a pic of his car raised while doing the bleeding procedure and his coolant bottle went all the way to the top of the hood!!

Thing is, if you get air back into it, then there must be an air-leak of some sort somewhere down the line. Coolant normally does escape if you've got a physical leak, so have a good thorough look under the car to see for any clues as to where it might be coming from.
 

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Thanks for the responses.

There are plenty of steep hills near me so I'll drive round one weekend when I'm up to temp and park on a steep hill and massage the hoses.

I will check for leaks too, although the number of times it's been in the garage recently I would of thought they would of spotted if there was a blatant coolant leak, and I dont see any signs of leaking in my parking space.

I'll let you know how it goes anyway.
 

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are there any photos to these instructions?
 

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Thank you for a great guide!

Thank you for a great guide!

I took a few photos while bleeding my cooling system. Which I have posted below.


Engine bay, all covers in place.


With passenger side(US) cover removed.


Cover retainers Torx but can be just pulled.


Coolant reservoir.


Both covers removed,hoses unclipped, reservior suspended.


Work in progress, bubbles rising.


The hoses

I *cough* downloaded the shop manuals...
The Toyota manual,talking about refilling the system, says this:
"HINT:
When the level can not be lowered before the supply of the 3.7
liters coolant, squeeze the radiator lower hose several times
while blocking the hole in the bleeder plug with a finger, and
surely supply the coolant."


I assume the lower hose is the Passenger(US) side hose shown above.
 

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antifreeze change

I have a serious problem..
I drained all the antifreeze..
and when I overflow it .... that tube in the picture sucks the antifreeze into the spark plugs which is weird... I had to clean them so the car will start..can anyone help me??
I have a 2000 celica gt
 
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